Handy robot toys tips for you
One handy construction tip that I learned was a quick and dirty, yet efficient way to mount a wheel on a motor shaft. The way that I found to be most effective for my robot was to use tubing that is used for RC car fuel lines and model airplane wheels. The diameter of the tubing was smaller than that of the shaft, but the tubing can expand, allowing it to fit snuggly onto the motor shaft. The tubing also expanded enough that it would fit snuggly inside of the hole for the airplane model wheels. The most useful parts for my robot were the chopsticks that I attached to the switches on the front and back of the robot. The chopsticks allowed the robot to run into an obstacle at a place different than the switch and still reverse directions. I got the chopsticks at Leann Chin and they were free.
programmable robot kits for beginners
https://www.robottoyonline.com/choosing-the-best-programmable-robot-kit-for-beginners/
Use a cam to smoothly depress and release a button with one revolution of a motor.
I found two cordless screwdrivers at Sears for $6.49 each. They are really easy to take apart, have pretty good motors and gearboxes, and the hex fitting on the gearbox output shaft for easy coupling to almost anything. No-load rpm is about 60.
For a set of wheels, tilt two gearmotors down towards the ground and run right on the shafts.
Hub Hobby has a large selection of motors with gear transmissions all-in-one. They are only $5-10. I also took apart a few R/C cars and they are only a few dollars at thrift stores.
Many people are tossing out their VCR's as DVD players take over. VCR's are full of gears, motors and levers.
Floppy disk drives have a nice stepper motor that can be extracted.
Hot glue is strong, flexible, easy to use, and cheap.
robot toys for adults
https://www.robottoyonline.com/robot-toys-for-adults-fun-companion-like-no-other/
Have your electronics and mechanisms be accessible to make it easy to change and repair your robot.
Use the pulsing method to slow your motor (see the motor control document), but watch out for voltage spikes.
If you need a powerful spring with a trigger mechanism, use a mouse trap. Bend up the trigger to make it less of a hair trigger.
Use cardboard, plastic tubs and lids, nails, pens, pencils, and whatever else that is cheap.
Ax-Man is a great place to find stuff.
Secure your electronics. Fasten all the components down to a board, then connect with wires. You can even glue down your components with legs pointing up.
I used some Tupperware from Target and a hinge from the hardware store.
I used screw-in eyelets and string to run power around my robot. Easy and works great. Bought both from Kmart for about $1.00.
To cut plexiglas, score with a utility knife then break over the edge of a 2x4 or other strong straight edge.
Ozobot Evo vs Bit
https://www.robottoyonline.com/ozobot-evo-vs-bit-putting-fun-creativity-in-robotics/
J-B Weld is a great expoxy. Very strong.
For my spring-loaded catapult I used a door hinge, a spoon and a spring. I duct-taped the spoon to the hinge. I attached one end of the spring to the spoon and the other to a screw on the board. By turning the screw, I was able to adjust the strength of my catapult with great precision.
I used two of my stamp pins as both inputs and outputs by redefining them as INPUT, then later as OUTPUT in the program.
I am familiar with sewing supplies so elastic and thread were critical to my robot.
A paint roller makes a nice spool for a web.
Lots of parts came from an old turntable that I took apart.
To make a turn table move slowly, rim drive it with the motor. Put something with high friction on the motor shaft then just press it up against the rim of your turntable.
I suggest to anyone who will take this class to get an early start; no one should have to suffer like me.
Lubricate moving parts with soap, grease, petroleum jelly (vasolene). Vasolene makes a great lubricant. Just dab a little bit on your gear train or bearing and hear the noise go away.
I found a solenoid for $1 at Axman.
I used a carpenter's C-clamp as the main mechanism in my can crusher.
On paper, everything worked perfectly. In the shop it was a different matter.
Copper plumbing pipe and fittings are useful for robot construction.
Make your robot strong and sturdy. You don't want it falling apart during the show.
I completed my robot entirely on my own, and I built it in less than 24 hours after my initial robot broke down the evening before the Robot Show.
Check these robot toys online
https://www.robottoyonline.com
When using electrical tape to join a drive shaft to the motor, put down a layer of tape on each part first, then join together with tape.
I slowed down my motor using pulse width modulation. This was much easier than buying a resistor or building a transmission. Details for doing this were on the course web site.
For my ferris wheel, I used a small bike wheel. $1.95 at Axman.
For neat wiring, use the "dead bug" approach. Glue your components (transistors, resistors, integrated circuits) down on their backs to a backing board (cardboard, thin wood) with component legs sticking up (thus the term "dead bug"). Trim long legs then connect with wire.
I turned to my family and friends for ideas and for help. A great resource.
Double corrugated cardboard is much stronger than regular cardboard. Find someone who just moved their house and ask if they have any "dish barrel" boxes.
If you use carboard, fold into triangle column shapes to add structural rigidity.
Sketch all your ideas in your sketchbook.
Hang around Ax-Man and ideas will come to you. Bring a 9 V battery so you can try out motors on the spot.
Use www.howstuffworks.com to figure out how lots of robot components work (gears, motors, LED's,...).
Hot glue is the most versatile bonding method.
To fasten a shaft to a motor, use the tube from a Bic round Stic pen. It's just the right diameter to slip over the motor shaft. Hold everything in place with epoxy.
Use stuff from the videocassette you dissected. The spools make great robot parts and you can make a belt from the tape.
I used a hinge from Home Depot to make a joint. Nice and cheap.
Make sure you have a robot that works.
To attach string to a motor shaft for winching, wrap the string a few times around the shaft then secure with a layer or two of duct or electrical tape.
Have a mom or dad who is good with tools.
Lay out your circuit on a piece of cardboard. Use a pen to mark where the wires go.
Pay attention to the deadlines.
programmable robot kits for beginners
https://www.robottoyonline.com/choosing-the-best-programmable-robot-kit-for-beginners/
Use a cam to smoothly depress and release a button with one revolution of a motor.
I found two cordless screwdrivers at Sears for $6.49 each. They are really easy to take apart, have pretty good motors and gearboxes, and the hex fitting on the gearbox output shaft for easy coupling to almost anything. No-load rpm is about 60.
For a set of wheels, tilt two gearmotors down towards the ground and run right on the shafts.
Hub Hobby has a large selection of motors with gear transmissions all-in-one. They are only $5-10. I also took apart a few R/C cars and they are only a few dollars at thrift stores.
Many people are tossing out their VCR's as DVD players take over. VCR's are full of gears, motors and levers.
Floppy disk drives have a nice stepper motor that can be extracted.
Hot glue is strong, flexible, easy to use, and cheap.
robot toys for adults
https://www.robottoyonline.com/robot-toys-for-adults-fun-companion-like-no-other/
Have your electronics and mechanisms be accessible to make it easy to change and repair your robot.
Use the pulsing method to slow your motor (see the motor control document), but watch out for voltage spikes.
If you need a powerful spring with a trigger mechanism, use a mouse trap. Bend up the trigger to make it less of a hair trigger.
Use cardboard, plastic tubs and lids, nails, pens, pencils, and whatever else that is cheap.
Ax-Man is a great place to find stuff.
Secure your electronics. Fasten all the components down to a board, then connect with wires. You can even glue down your components with legs pointing up.
I used some Tupperware from Target and a hinge from the hardware store.
I used screw-in eyelets and string to run power around my robot. Easy and works great. Bought both from Kmart for about $1.00.
To cut plexiglas, score with a utility knife then break over the edge of a 2x4 or other strong straight edge.
Ozobot Evo vs Bit
https://www.robottoyonline.com/ozobot-evo-vs-bit-putting-fun-creativity-in-robotics/
J-B Weld is a great expoxy. Very strong.
For my spring-loaded catapult I used a door hinge, a spoon and a spring. I duct-taped the spoon to the hinge. I attached one end of the spring to the spoon and the other to a screw on the board. By turning the screw, I was able to adjust the strength of my catapult with great precision.
I used two of my stamp pins as both inputs and outputs by redefining them as INPUT, then later as OUTPUT in the program.
I am familiar with sewing supplies so elastic and thread were critical to my robot.
A paint roller makes a nice spool for a web.
Lots of parts came from an old turntable that I took apart.
To make a turn table move slowly, rim drive it with the motor. Put something with high friction on the motor shaft then just press it up against the rim of your turntable.
I suggest to anyone who will take this class to get an early start; no one should have to suffer like me.
Lubricate moving parts with soap, grease, petroleum jelly (vasolene). Vasolene makes a great lubricant. Just dab a little bit on your gear train or bearing and hear the noise go away.
I found a solenoid for $1 at Axman.
I used a carpenter's C-clamp as the main mechanism in my can crusher.
On paper, everything worked perfectly. In the shop it was a different matter.
Copper plumbing pipe and fittings are useful for robot construction.
Make your robot strong and sturdy. You don't want it falling apart during the show.
I completed my robot entirely on my own, and I built it in less than 24 hours after my initial robot broke down the evening before the Robot Show.
Check these robot toys online
https://www.robottoyonline.com
When using electrical tape to join a drive shaft to the motor, put down a layer of tape on each part first, then join together with tape.
I slowed down my motor using pulse width modulation. This was much easier than buying a resistor or building a transmission. Details for doing this were on the course web site.
For my ferris wheel, I used a small bike wheel. $1.95 at Axman.
For neat wiring, use the "dead bug" approach. Glue your components (transistors, resistors, integrated circuits) down on their backs to a backing board (cardboard, thin wood) with component legs sticking up (thus the term "dead bug"). Trim long legs then connect with wire.
I turned to my family and friends for ideas and for help. A great resource.
Double corrugated cardboard is much stronger than regular cardboard. Find someone who just moved their house and ask if they have any "dish barrel" boxes.
If you use carboard, fold into triangle column shapes to add structural rigidity.
Sketch all your ideas in your sketchbook.
Hang around Ax-Man and ideas will come to you. Bring a 9 V battery so you can try out motors on the spot.
Use www.howstuffworks.com to figure out how lots of robot components work (gears, motors, LED's,...).
Hot glue is the most versatile bonding method.
To fasten a shaft to a motor, use the tube from a Bic round Stic pen. It's just the right diameter to slip over the motor shaft. Hold everything in place with epoxy.
Use stuff from the videocassette you dissected. The spools make great robot parts and you can make a belt from the tape.
I used a hinge from Home Depot to make a joint. Nice and cheap.
Make sure you have a robot that works.
To attach string to a motor shaft for winching, wrap the string a few times around the shaft then secure with a layer or two of duct or electrical tape.
Have a mom or dad who is good with tools.
Lay out your circuit on a piece of cardboard. Use a pen to mark where the wires go.
Pay attention to the deadlines.
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